Sofia and Melnik, Bulgaria

Dear Blog Readers,

We spent two full days and three nights in Sofia, Bulgaria, April 20-22, 2013. The first day we walked around the city; the second day we joined a small tour to Rila Monastery and the town of Melnik. The Rila Monastery, a World Heritage Site is covered in a different post entitled "Rila Monastery". Please check it out.

Sofia

Sofia, established in the 5th century, is today the capital and largest city in Bulgaria, with a population of about 1.2 million people. It is located at the foot of the mountains in western Bulgaria.  Many of the major universities, cultural institutions and businesses of Bulgaria are concentrated in the city. 

We set out to visit a church, a mosque and a synagogue on our walking tour so as to not play any favorites among the religions based on the God of Abraham as the one and only true god.

First a church: St Alexander Nevski Cathedral. 

The cornerstone was laid in 1882, construction began in 1904, finished in 1916 and the church was sanctified in 1924.  It is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world, as well as one of Sofia's symbols and primary tourist attractions. It can hold 10,000 people

No photos allowed inside. There are mosaics on the exterior that can be photographed

Wikipedia photo by Elena Chochkova

We found a friendly lion to sit upon.

 And a zaftig woman--my kind of gal!

City view

Second, a mosque: the Banyi-Bashi Mosque 

The mosque was completed in 1576, during the years the Ottomans had control of Sofia. The mosque derives its name from the phrase Banya Bashi, which means many baths. The most outstanding feature of the Mosque is that it was actually built over natural thermal spas. The Mosque is famous for its large dome, diameter 15 meter, and the minaret rising upward to the sky. 

Banya Bashi Mosque in the late 19th century

Currently the Banya Bashi Mosque is the only functioning mosque in Sofia, a remnant of the Ottman rule of Bulgaria that lasted nearly five centuries, and is used by the city's small Muslim community.

The mosque exterior is under restoration, however we were able to go inside.

Looking up the wall to the dome

window

Wall tile

 The schedule of the call-to-pray times changes daily.

These are details from the Turkish bath next door.

Third a syncgogue: the Sofia Synagogue

The Sofia Synagogue is the largest synagogue in Southeastern Europe, one of two functioning in Bulgaria and the third-largest in Europe. It was opened in 1909.

However the synagogue was closed to visitation when we were there as it was Saturday, the sabbath.

Melnik

Melnik is a town in southwestern Bulgaria.

View Larger Map

It is an architectural reserve and 96 of its buildings are cultural monuments. Since at least 1346, Melnik has been famous for producing a strong wine from  local grapes.  This wine was reportedly a favourite of Winston Churchill. 

With a population of 385, it is the smallest town in Bulgaria, retaining its city status today for historical reasons. The unique architecture of Melnik makes it a popular tourist destination. 

The town is also associated with the impressive natural sand pyramids, resembling giant mushrooms, towers and obelisks. 

Panorama photo from Wikipedia

The drive from Rila Monastery to Melnik took us through beautiful countryside and forests and past wonderful vistas.

We were starved then we arrived, therefore our first order of business was lunch. We ate at a small restaurant specializing in delicious traditional Bulgarian food. 

Our group of four was made up of our Traventuria Tour guide Orlin (left), and three clients, Kasha (right), Moe and myself.

After lunch we strolled up a street lined with old houses, interesting sights and a cat.

At the top of the hill, we visited the Kordopulov House. Built in 1754 it was possibly the largest of its kind and period and was owned by a rich Greek merchant, Manolis Kordopulos. It includes a wine cellar and area for habitation.

Kordopulov House

 Inside the residence the rooms are very large and have beautiful painted wooden walls and panels.

Kasha checks out the painted wall

Seemingly an ordinary cabinet, this one opened to reveal a hidden stairway

Outdoors on the roof was a sundial

The basement of the house was originally a winery. Now it serves as a wine-tasting area and salesroom for the local wine. You can walk into the tunnels carved into the hillside, an area used for the storage of casks of wine.

An area of clay soil in the tunnel held coins placed there for good luck.

They spilled onto the floor

I placed a coin and made a wish

We tasted the wine.

Cheers!

On the way to the car we asked our guide about the things in the trees and he explained.

On the first day of March and for a few days afterwards, Bulgarians exchange and wear white and red tassels or small dolls called "martenitsa".  

They are a herald of springtime and the rebirth of life in general. People receive them as presents from relatives, close friends and colleagues and they are usually worn pinned to clothing, or tied around the wrist. A person usually wears the martenitsa until they see a stork or a blooming tree. When taken off they may be tied to the branch of a fruit tree to give the tree health and luck.

Martenitsa or ribbons of scare birds?